Berluti‘s Fall/Winter 2019 collection marked Kris Van Assche‘s debut for the Parisian luxury brand, having joined the house 10 months prior after an 11-year tenure as creative director of Dior Homme.
With the Palais Garnier acting as the collection’s backdrop, clean tailored suits ranging in vibrant color tones of pink, reds, yellows and blues to more demure palettes walked down the runway. Instead of opening his show with one of his signature black suits, Van Assche opted to kick it off with a brown patinated leather number in homage to Berluti’s roots in footwear. “If my previous work always started with a black suit, I can definitely say that here it starts with the shoes,” Van Assche said during a preview.
Clear inspiration from the label’s patinas were also present throughout the collection, seeing rings of color and marble prints spotlighting a few items. Elsewhere, sportwear inspo was also present, coming in on a ribbed sweater knitted from 1,000 meters of multicolored leather string and on a reversible black leather and fur duffle coat, while Berluti’s classic Alessandro loafer was decorated with metallic hardware.
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